On last February 2015, agarwoodindonesia had done an analysis to one of it’s oil oud indah kemilau . The oil was coded by abbreviation Kaltim, which stand for Kalimantan Timur or simply in English “East Kalimantan”. The analysis is done by an independent third party laboratory. It was Laboratory for Basic Physic and Chemistry, Department of Chemistry at Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Science, Indonesia Islamic University.
I am very glad that Yogyakarta is the center of education in Indonesia especially higher education, with over hundreds of higher education institution in Yogyakarta, to get access to GC MS test is quite an easy task, moreover affordable compare to the west or let’s say neighboring country like Singapore or Malaysia. At the site we release it as Indah Kemilau and here are the result:
I am not a chemist but I do have relationship with one of the finest chemist in essential oil in Indonesia, from the interpretation provided by the laboratory we can detect at least 23 substance inside the oil. The time retention is 23 minutes, since this is a very long list with things you might scared off so let’s get brief. The first peak is methyl carbinol it is common to be found in butter aroma that give that buttery aroma, the second peak is Benzyl acetone common found in flower and tobacco,so you will found Indah Kemilau is very flowery from the start. Reviewer at Basenotes oud oil thread told us like this :
East Kalimantan (Indah Kemilau)
The opening to this oil is very dense, it has a strong piercing presence. Breaking down the opening notes was one of the most challenging oud related tasks I’ve come across. To begin with I get a moldy touch, like waterlogged wood, a bit of pine, a medicinal note that reminded me most of tea tree, a herbal quality that I find is most reminiscent of the upper pitch of aniseed sans the sugary liquorice base, a hint of mothballs, and a phantom citrus note which at times feels like the sharp blade of lime, but at others feels like the rotund sweetness of mandarin. The cumulative effect is a piercing high note, one that only a soprano could deliver. The duration of this effect reaches well into the heart of the fragrance, until it slowly softens, revealing some fresh sawdust, a sprinkle of white pepper, and a cedary heart. For the dry-down there is a faint oudy woody sweetness.
Ok next is the most important thing in agarwood oil is the marker !! A marker substance is a very important even if it is very small in their amount it will indicates is it real or not real. In peak 11 you will find agarospirol at 2% range. So if you come across to an oud oil is not just by the words of the seller, the most scientific way and the most reliable way is this. Let the machine be the judge, I think that’s all enjoy the data folks. It’s late here in Yogyakarta. Tabik!